When it’s chilly outside and you’re feeling a bit under the weather, there’s nothing better than a bowl of hot soup. It seems like this dish has always existed—at least ever since humans learned how to boil water.
But have you ever wondered why some soups have remained simple peasant fare, while others have become national symbols that draw long lines at Michelin-starred restaurants?
Today we’ll share the stories of three soups from different corners of the globe that have gone from being the leftovers of the poor to achieving worldwide culinary fame.
France: Onion Soup (Soupe à l'oignon) — From Roman Legionnaires to Parisian High Society
The history of French onion soup is shrouded in legend. The most popular legend has it that King Louis XV of France himself invented it. One day, during a hunting break, he found nothing but onions, butter, and champagne in a cabin. After mixing it all together, he created a masterpiece. Sounds nice? Yes. Is it true? Hardly.
In fact, onions were a staple of the poor’s diet as far back as Ancient Greece and Rome: they’re inexpensive, grow quickly, and are very filling. In France, for centuries, onion soup was considered the food of peasants and laborers. It was even called les soupes d'ivrognes (“drunkards’ soup”) because Parisian merchants at the Les Halles market would eat it in the mornings to sober up after a wild night.
How did it become a cult classic? Everything changed when people started adding broth to the onion stock, sprinkling the soup with dried bread and generously topping it with grated cheese (often Gruyère), and then baking it in the oven until it formed a golden crust. American culinary icon Julia Child gave the soup a touch of royal elegance, popularizing it in the United States in the 20th century. Today, this aromatic onion soup with stretchy cheese is served in both cozy bistros in Montmartre and upscale restaurants around the world.
Japan: Ramen — From the Chinese Slums to the Heart of Pop Culture
Today, ramen is a cult, a philosophy, and a destination for culinary pilgrimages. Foodies hunt for rare varieties of noodles, and Tokyo is home to Michelin-starred ramen restaurants. But few people remember how it all began.
Strictly speaking, ramen is an immigrant. It made its way to Japan from China in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Originally, it was a cheap, filling street food for Chinese workers in port cities. The noodles in a rich meat broth cost next to nothing.
Ramen really exploded in popularity after World War II. Japan lay in ruins, the country was facing a severe food shortage, and American flour flooded the markets. Street vendors (taiyaki) began cooking rich broths from pork bones, adding noodles, and selling them to their hungry fellow citizens.
How did it become a cult classic? The turning point came in 1958, when Momofuku Ando invented instant ramen (“Doshirak” and “Anacom” trace their origins to the same time). The soup became a symbol of rapid postwar progress. And in the 1980s, ramen became a trend: books were written about it, movies were made (the famous “Tampopo” by Jūzō Itami), and signature ramen shops began to open, where each chef keeps the broth recipe a closely guarded secret.
Ukraine: Borscht—From Beet Greens to UNESCO
Borscht is more than just a meal. It’s a battleground (often online), a family heirloom, and a source of pride. Its history stretches back centuries.
Originally, in Russia and Ukraine, the word “borscht” referred to a soup made from edible hogweed (before the plant became a dangerous weed). Later, beets began to be added to the pot—first the leaves, and then the root vegetable.
For a long time, borscht was a dish of the common people: peasants would throw whatever they had on hand into the oven—cabbage, carrots, onions, lard, and beets. Meat was added only on holidays, and the main flavor came from fermented beets (kvass).
How did it become a cult favorite? Gradually, borscht won over people from all walks of life—from Cossacks to emperors (according to legend, Catherine II loved it). Every Ukrainian homemaker perfected the recipe by adding tomatoes (after they appeared in Europe), beans, prunes, or garlic-flavored doughnuts.
This recognition culminated in the inclusion of “The Culture of Preparing Ukrainian Borscht” on the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2022. Today, borscht is the country’s culinary brand, bringing people together around the world.
What is the secret to success?
What do onion soup, ramen, and borscht have in common? They’ve all come a long way from being “foods of last resort” to becoming global classics.
The secret to their cult status is simple: soul and adaptability. A good soup doesn't tolerate pretense. It requires time, respect for the ingredients, and the ability to bring people together around a single table, regardless of their status or nationality.
